What Does Ssk Stand for in Knitting
There is something strangely intimidating about turning a heel. It seems a bit like magic, some decreases, some short rows, and boom: your heel fits perfectly in an item that is otherwise a tube. We assure you it's as simple as 1, 2, 3! Heel Flap, Heel Turn, and Gusset!
If you are using the Rye Light pattern all of the techniques will be the same, but the numbers will be slightly different.
Download a copy of the Rye sock pattern (it's free!) and let's get down to business. If you have been knitting along with The Simple Collection as each design was released, there are very few things that are completely new in socks so this will be a breeze!
The Rye sock pattern is designed for worsted or aran weight yarn, so that the knitting proceeds QUICKLY. This tutorial uses the stitch counts from that pattern. However, if you'd prefer to work in sock-weight yarn, you can use the free Rye Light sock pattern. The numbers for Rye Light are different than given in this tutorial, but the process is just the same!
::: Ribbing :::
Following the directions for your size cast onto double pointed needles (DPN's) OR cast on to a 40″+ circular needle (for magic loop) 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48) sts. This tutorial is illustrated using DPNs.
Tip: For DPNs, I recommend placing 1/2 of your stitches on needle 1, 1/4 of your stitches on needle 2, and 1/4 of your stitches on needle 3. This way you know your round starts at the beginning of the 'full' needle.
Work in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for 0.5 (1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) inches.
This means you will (k1, p1) around until your piece measures the specified length.
Change to larger needles. [an illustration of this technique shown here]
Round 1: k2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5), p10 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14), knit to end
Round 2: knit
This establishes the garter stitch panel that runs down the middle front of the sock. When you are working back and forth garter stitch is created by knitting every row, BUT when you are working in the round it is created by knitting 1 on one round and purling on the next. So your sock will look like mine, pictured below: a panel of garter stitch surrounded by stockinette stitch [learn more about basic stitch patterns here].
Garter panel down the middle
Tip: If you are having trouble remembering where the garter panel goes (or you just want things to be a little more fool-proof) you may want to place a marker on either side of the panel.
Optional: placing markers on either side of the garter panel
::: Cuff :::
Repeat rounds 1-2 until piece measures 2.5 (4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8) inches from cast on, ending with a round 1.
You will maintain the garter panel down the centre and the stockinette everywhere else until your sock measures 2.5 (4.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5, 8) inches from cast on.
Tip: If you like a short ankle sock or a longer cuff this is where you would adjust the pattern, making it shorter or longer.
::: Heel Flap :::
Next round: k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), then place these sts on hold. You will work the heel flap on the next k14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, knit to end
Row 2 (WS): sl1, purl to end
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times, or 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22) rows.
The heel flap is the part of the sock that goes over the back of your heel and is worked back and forth in rows. This means that you will want all of the heel flap stitches on one needle if you are working on DPN's. It also means that you will be turning your work after each row (instead of continuing in the round).
Finished heel flap (you can see the long slipped stitches along the edges)
::: Heel Turn :::
This is the part of the socks that scares people but stay calm, take a deep breath, turn off the TV or send the kids out of the room!
The heel is shaped using short rows: this means that you will turn your work in the middle of a row without knitting all of the stitches. Fear not, we know you haven't worked all the stitches and it's okay. Where it says 'turn work' you turn from RS of the work facing you to the WS of the work facing you, in preparation to work back in the other direction.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k6 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14) ssk, k1, turn work
Row 2 (WS): sl1, p1 (3, 5, 7, 5, 7), p2tog, p1, turn work
Now we are all set up. You should see 2 gaps in your work. They will occur where we turned our work. They look like this:
Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work
Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work
Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked – 8 (10, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts remain.
Knit across the heel stitches.
Heel accomplished! It will look like this:
Completed heel turn
::: Gusset :::
Now you have kind of a funny looking thing. It's a tube with a flap and a little triangle, not really like a sock at all yet. But it's time to join it all back together into a tube. To do this we will pick up and knit stitches along the sides of the heel flap (remember all those slipped stitches?).
Where to pick up and knit
::: how to pick up and knit stitches :::
To pick up and knit stitches you need the right side (RS) of your work facing you, that's the knit side.
Step 1: Insert your needle into the stitch (from RS to WS)
Step 2: Loop the yarn around your needle (at the back of work)
Step 3: Pull the loop through to the RS (using the needle tip, as though you were knitting a stitch)
Now you will have a stitch on your right hand needle. You have picked up a stitch!
Put your needle through the stitch from front (RS) to back
Wrap your yarn around the needle and pull the loop through
Stitches have been picked up!
Once you have picked up and knit stitches along the heel flap you work across the top of the foot, maintaining the garter panel as established and knitting all the other stitches.
If you are working on a long circular needle with the magic loop technique, you will need to place a marker after the picked up stitches. If you are working on DPNs, work the top of the foot on a separate needle, instead of a marker, you'll have the gap between needles.
Once you have worked across the top of the foot you will need to place a marker if you are on circulars and if you are using double points you will pick up down the other side of the heel flap using another needle.
Next you will k4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts (this is 1/2 of your heel sts). If you are working with circulars you will place a marker here to indicate the beginning of the round. If you are working with double pointed needles, knit these stitches with the same needle you picked up the second half of the heel with, so that the end of that needle means the end of the round.
Picking up stitches complete. Note that the blue markers in the work indicate the garter panel.
Round 1: knit
Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, work in pattern across top of foot to marker, k1, ssk, knit to end
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 5 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9) times. [28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48) sts]
Note: if you are working on double pointed needles there won't be any markers (except maybe ones you have marking the garter panel), so when it says 'knit to 3 sts before marker' you will be knitting to 3 sts before the end of the needle. When it says 'work in pattern across top of foot to marker' you will be working to the end of needle 2. The end of needle 3 marks the end of the round.
Once you've completed this section, you will have decreased the additional stitches picked up for the 'gusset' triangle at the side of the foot.
To shift beginning of round (BOR) remove marker, k7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), slip marker – this is the new BOR, located at the side of the foot. Keep the second marker after the instep sts in place.
If you're working on DPNS, this means that you'll simply shift the beginning-of-round point the end of what was your second needle.
Completed gusset will look like this
::: Foot :::
Continue working in the round, keeping the top of foot in pattern until your piece measures 3 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) inches from back of heel or 1 (1, 1.5, 2, 2, 2.25) inches short of desired foot length.
The foot is simple as can be! You simply knit around and around, maintaining the garter panel at the top of the foot as set. You can try on the socks at this point to see how long they should be.
::: Toe :::
There are 4 decrease points for the toe, two on each side of the foot. The markers in the work above are around the garter panel, they are not at the decrease points.
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 (4 sts decreased)
Round 2: knit
Repeat rounds 1-2 two (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more times [16 (16, 20, 24, 28, 32) sts]
Then repeat round 1 until 12 (12, 16 16, 20, 20) sts remain. Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail and, then graft toe using kitchener stitch [tutorial here].
Once you have grafted the toe, the socks are finished! Simply weave in your ends inside the sock, and then wear with pleasure! Blocking isn't really necessary for socks, as they are snug and conform to the contours of your feet. Congratulations – you have just finished your first sock!
Weave in your ends and enjoy your new socks!
This tutorial is part of The Simple Collection – our 100% free learn-to-knit series. Check out the 13 fabulous free patterns sized from baby to big, and get started making modern seamless knits for the entire family! Like our work? Get our email updates and we will let you know about new patterns, tutorials, and events.
What Does Ssk Stand for in Knitting
Source: https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/socks/